Nikon N2000 (F-301) - Loud & Proud

Nikon N2000 aka F-301 (1985) w/ MB-3 AA Battery Holder & 50mm f/1.8 AI Nikkor

   Updated Aug. 25, 2023

    Ka-Chang! Ka-Chang! Ka-Chang! The 1980s were anything but unobtrusive, so it should come as no surprise that the N2000 (F-301 outside of the US & Canada), Nikon's first SLR with internal, automatic film winding, was not bashful in its efforts to advance 35mm film to the next frame. This by no means distinguished it from its peers as there were no truly quiet motorized film advances until the '90s came along. Long spurned by Nikonistas due to its cardinal sins of: 1) Complete battery reliance, 2) Hybrid construction (READ: it's not all-metal...gasp!), and 3) Automation for everything but film rewind and auto focus, the N2000 is an all-time sleeper among Nikon SLRs (although the ruckus it makes when you squeeze the shutter release would serve as an effective alarm tone on your smartphone ;-)). It was Nikon's last proper, in-house, clean-sheet, manual focus SLR design (don't get me started on the FM-10/FE-10 imposters or the oddball N6000/F-601M that supposedly replaced the N2000, but was just a de-contented MF version of the AF N6006/F-601). But there was more to this under-the-radar SLR than just a fancy film advance system.

  A Long Time Coming (and Running)

    The gestation of the N2000 was a long one. The two cameras that kicked off the internal film winding SLR gambit, the Konica FS-1 and the CONTAX 137 MD Quartz, debuted in 1979 and 1980, respectively, and then were both updated into the FT-1 and 137 MA Quartz in 1983. You can tell that Nikon engineers gave both of those models (particularly the CONTAX) a long, hard look during their development of the N2000. Two years later, the first all-new Nikon SLR chassis in over five years was introduced in September 1985. The N2000 would last on the market until September 1992 (production obviously ended earlier than that :-)), and sell over 1.3 million copies along the way; not a bad run for a manual focus SLR that came out seven months after the AF SLR revolution began :-). With it, Nikon initiated their regional nomenclature for all non-professional film SLR models: with the "Nxxxx"-prefix for the USA and the "F-xxx"-prefix for other international markets. The N2000, along with its near-twin, the AF-capable N2020/F-501 (April 1986), would prove to be the last SLRs to sport the classic F2-stylized "Nikon" embossed into their prism housings. All subsequent models would use the italicized "Nikon" script (excepting the limited run 50th Anniversary F5, which resurrected the original font from the Nikon 1 rangefinder :-)). The N2000 was the direct replacement for the manual-advance FG & FG-20 cameras (which could be fitted with an accessory MD-14 motor drive), and the progress made with it is best seen in that context. Besides the integrated motor drive, other new features (for a Nikon, at least) included:

• The K2 BriteView focusing screen, which offered a split-image rangefinder with multi-angle prisms that improved focus accuracy while simultaneously reducing blackout between the prism halves with lenses having a maximum aperture slower than f/4.5. BriteView referred to the laser-etched pattern for the matte-field that made for the brightest overall viewfinder yet in a Nikon SLR (it was basically their version of Minolta's Acute Matte screen technology). All succeeding enthusiast and professional Nikon SLRs and DSLRs would use BriteView focusing screens.
• A 1-step increase in minimum shutter speed to 1/2000 sec. from 1/1000 sec., which was a first for a consumer-level Nikon SLR. And likely the reason for the N"2000" nomenclature of the North American version. It utilized quartz (technically, lithium niobate) control for the shutter, making for a higher degree of accuracy over standard electronically-controlled shutters. 
• The addition of a P HI Program mode, which was biased toward higher shutter speeds (1/2-step - 1 1/2-steps between EV 3-18) and therefore, wider apertures at a given exposure value (EV) than the standard P mode. Nikon encouraged use of this mode with lenses of 135mm focal length or more to combat motion-blur, or when fast-moving subjects were the quarry. It could also come in handy for portrait work.
• The first Auto Exposure (AE) lock in a consumer Nikon SLR.
• A film loading indicator in the film back that rotated upon advance when the film was properly loaded.
• A window in the film back that revealed the film type, speed, and number of exposures recorded on the cartridge versus the traditional exterior memo holder of the FG & FG-20.
• Provision for automatic DX (introduced by Kodak in 1984) film speed setting from ISO 25-4000 via six gold-plated contacts in the film chamber. The user could override this and set the film speed manually between ISO 12-3200, if desired. Why the difference in ranges? Likely because the slowest commonly available film by 1985 was Kodachrome 25, and so Nikon simply bumped the DX range up one step to account for that. They then had a little extra space on top, so they pushed the top end by 1/3-stop to ISO 4000. 
• The N2000 also adopted an electronic remote release cable (the MC-12A or MC-12B) that used the same connection as used in Nikon's accessory MD-4 (F3) and MD-15 (FA) motor drives, while eliminating the traditional mechanical cable release in the shutter button used by all previous Nikon SLRs. The MC-12A (3m/9.8' long) and MC-12B (0.8m/2.6' long) were updated versions of the MC-10 remote for older Nikon motor drives that allowed for meter activation with a partial press on the release button. The MC-12A & B were also used for the N2020/F-501, N8008(s)/F-801(s), F4, and N70/F70 SLRs. The screw-in MR-3 accessory shutter release button can also be mounted to the electronic release socket.
• In another first for a Nikon, the N2000 was the recipient of an optional multi-function film back (MF-19) that expanded on the capabilities of previous databacks (which imprinted the date and time on each frame) by including intervalometer and timer functions for time-lapse photography, and also auto focus triggering for the upcoming N2020 AF model. 

MB-4 AAA (top) & MB-3 AA (bottom)

​    The big thing was, undoubtedly, the integral film winder. A bare FG equipped with the MD-14 and its eight alkaline AA batteries weighed on the order of 1025 grams (36.1 oz) and had a maximum frame rate of 3.2 frames per second (fps) on High, and 2 fps set to Low. There was no selection between Single or Continuous advance. You had to press and release the shutter release relatively quickly to prevent taking more than one frame sequentially. The N2000 with four AA batteries installed (this required using the optional MB-3 battery cover in place of the standard MB-4, which held four AAAs) cut that to 670 grams (23.6 oz); a considerable savings of 35%. It still achieved a very respectable (for the day) 2.5 fps, which was impressive considering it had half of the amperage of the MD-14 at its disposal. An AA-powered N2000 was also far more efficient, able to run through 180 rolls of 36 exposures versus the 50 or so of the FG/MD-14 combo on a single set of alkaline batteries at room temperature (as are all of the ratings in this article). While there was no H/L setting on the N2000, it did allow for selection between (S)ingle and (C)ontinuous advance, which was plenty for its mid-consumer-level status.

    As far as noise is concerned, a bit of perspective is in order. To a 21st-century ear (with our piped-in exhaust noise for sports cars and fake shutter clicks on our smartphones ;-)) the N2000 is noisy. But for its time, it was average or even a bit below-average. And when compared to many concurrent external motor drives or winders, it was actually a noticeable improvement. Just for casual comparison I took one of the more discreet SLRs of its era, the Minolta XD-11 (565g/20 oz with 2 - SR44 batteries), and popped on its accessory Auto Winder D (265g/9.3 oz with 4-AA Lithiums; 2 fps max.) and put it up against the N2000. With a Realistic #33-2050 sound meter positioned 30.5 cm (12") from the loudest part (between the front grip and lens mount of the N2000, and the rear central portion of the Auto Winder D, where the motors were located...go figure ;-)) of the tripod-mounted cameras with no hands or fingers to alter the dispersion of sound, the Nikon produced 73 dB while the Minolta punched out 76 dB (both were set to 1/250 sec. shutter speed). But it's not just about peak sound levels; the Minolta winder was higher-pitched and the cycle lasted at least twice as long, making for a much more noticeable frame advance.   

   The N2000 also more than held its own in relation to its internal-winding peers: the Canon T-70 (2 AAs; 1.2 fps ouch; 40 rolls of 36), the Minolta 7000 (w/ optional 4-AA holder BH-70L; 2 fps; 40 or so rolls of 36), the Pentax A3000/A3 (2 AAs; 1.5 fps; 50 rolls of 36), the Konica FT-1 (w/ optional 4-AA holder; 2 fps; 40 rolls of 36), and its closest competitor, the CONTAX 137 MA Quartz, to which the N2000 bears more than a passing resemblance in the battery compartment and film back areas ;-)). With its four AAs, the 137 MA Quartz outdid the N2000 in frame rate (3 fps), but at the expense of battery life (50 rolls of 36). To put all of those numbers in context, most accessory autowinders (if available) for manual-advance SLRs at the time used 4 AAs and did 2 fps on average (like our Minolta Auto Winder D). Nikon's advertising claim that the N2000 had the fastest integral motor in its "class", relied on its Program modes to distinguish it from the 137 MA Quartz which had "only" Aperture-priority and Manual modes. Such hair-splitting to claim superiority over competitors had become firmly entrenched by the mid-'80s as the SLR bust was in full swing and manufacturers were seeking to grab every last percent of market share from each other.

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The chassis of the N2000/F-301.

  The N2K in the 21st Century

   Public Enemies 1, 2, 3, & 4 (aside from Nikonistas ;-)) for an N2000 are the alkaline batteries that have been used to power the vast majority of these cameras for the past 35+ years. More of these bodies have been rendered inoperable by those treacherous little barrels of leakiness than you can shake a jug of vinegar and a handful of Q-tips at (which is what you will need at the very least to clean any corrosion left behind). Two tips:

1. The absolute first order of business if you are contemplating the purchase of an N2000/F-301 (or its AF sibling, the N2020/F-501) is to ascertain the condition of the battery compartment. If there are signs of heavy current or previous corrosion, you may very well want to move on. At the very least, test the camera in question thoroughly before laying your coinage down. You might also be able to drive the price down a bit in such a situation.
2. If you do end up securing one, do yourself (and any prospective future owners) a favor and power it with Energizer Ultimate Lithium or Eneloop-type NiMH AAA or AA batteries, if at all possible. For the few extra bucks you can have complete peace of mind and not have to worry about remembering to remove the batteries anytime the camera will be sitting for awhile. I have noticed that "quality" name-brand alkaline batteries in my part of the world seem to be getting even more leak-prone than in years past and I have stopped using them in any of my battery-powered devices. Other benefits of the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums are: their cold-weather performance, lesser weight, and much greater longevity even under normal temperature conditions. For example, Nikon rated the N2000 with AAA alkalines (using the standard MB-4 battery holder) for 60 rolls of 36-exp. film at 20 degrees C per set of four. Substituting the MB-3 AA battery holder triples that figure. Swapping lithium AAs for the alkalines will increase that figure of 180 rolls to a mind-blowing nine hundred (this is based off of Nikon's own testing with the F90x/N90s in the late-1990s, where lithiums gave five times the longevity of standard alkalines at room temperature and lasted fourteen times longer at -10 degrees C). Suffice it to say that for most users, one set of lithiums (whether AAA or AA) would probably be the last batteries you would ever have to buy for an N2000. And they have a shelf life of 20 years, to top it all off. A set of 2000-2500 milliamp-hour NiMH AAs will give anywhere between 250-400 rolls of 36-exp., so that is definitely a viable option as well :-). 

    Many times you will hear of or read about the "plasticky" construction of the N2000 (and its AF near-twin, the N2020/F-501). A bit of clarification is in order. It was not the first Nikon to use plastics by a long shot: the EM (1979) and its FG (1982) and FG-20 (1984) progeny, sported polymer top and bottom plates, and a less solid but still very decent feel, long before it. And even the enthusiast-level FA (1983) utilized such materials for its top plate. While it is true that the N2000's top plate & most of its controls, the trim plate surrounding the lens mount, and the interior of the battery compartment are all polymer or polycarbonate (which technically makes for "hybrid" construction), this is not a flimsy, creaky, or cheaply-constructed camera. The chassis was formed from two substantial aluminum alloy castings (using the same alloy as the F3 and the FM/FE/FA bodies) with all of the plastic bits screwed to said castings (the three rubber front grip panels are also directly attached to the front casting with double-sided tape). So, while it is not unusual to find hairline cracks in the admittedly thin polycarbonate of the top plate on either side of the model number, structural integrity is not compromised in such a situation. Of course, if you slam the camera around like a wannabe war photographer, it's not going to enjoy it ;-). The film back was still made from aluminum as was the bottom plate/battery cover (which could not be said of many of its peers in 1985), so you still got that true metallic cool-to-the-touch vibe when cradling the N2000 in your hands. You want to talk about plasticky Nikons? Grab an N/F50, 55, 60, 65, or 75 or an FM/FE-10 and then tell me the N2K feels cheap and flimsy. Oh, and no "sticky grip syndrome" to be had, either :-). 

    As far as lens compatibility goes, the N2000 is pretty darn solid among manual focus Nikon bodies. It will meter with almost any AI-modified *, AI, AI-s/Series E, or AF(-D) Nikkor lens. There are a couple caveats when metering in the two Program modes with AI-modified lenses (which lack the internal AI lug found on the mount of all actual AI, AI-s/Series E, and AF(-D) lenses) that the instruction manual details on page 37. If you are going to be a hardcore Program user, simply using actual AI or AI-s/Series E lenses makes this a moot point, or if you already have AI-modified lenses, using Aperture-priority or Manual will also mitigate any possible issues with obtaining proper exposures. Non-AI lenses will not mount on the N2000 without causing damage to the AI coupler, SO DO NOT ATTEMPT IT :-). While Nikkor "G" AF lenses will mount on the camera, their lack of an aperture ring and AI tab means that they will not meter and you will only be able to shoot them at minimum aperture as there is no way of controlling the aperture from the camera body. Nikon accordingly classifies G lenses as incompatible with the N2000 in all exposure modes, including Program. Putting an AF lens on an MF body sort of defeats the purpose anyways, no? But if you want to, knock yourself out :-). 

  * AI-modified lenses that cannot be used on the N2000 are: Nikkor 55mm f/1.2 (Serial Nos. 184711-400000), Nikkor 28mm f/3.5 (Serial Nos. 625611-999999), and Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 (Serial Nos. 385001-400000). 

    A couple of nice features when you use the camera in "A" mode are: 1) When you engage the AE lock, the locked shutter speed glows steadily in the viewfinder display while the current meter reading blinks so you can instantly see how much of an exposure difference there is between the two values, and 2) When using TTL flash, the 1/125 sec. sync. speed glows steadily while the metered reading without flash blinks to again alert the user to the difference between the two.

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Rear view with DK-16 eyecup installed

  (Possible) Drawbacks

    As with any SLR, there were compromises incurred by the price point and design choices made with the N2000 such as:

• Due to the bottom plate location of the battery compartment, Nikon moved the tripod socket from the centerline of the lens mount to the extreme left bottom corner of the camera, making the N2000 somewhat unstable when mounted on a tripod, and unusable for panoramic photography. This can be overcome by attaching the AH-3 Tripod Adapter, but you pay a weight penalty of 120 grams (4.3 oz). Compromise city ;-).
• While its predecessors, the FG & FG-20, pre-fired the mirror when the self-timer was engaged (a feature generally reserved for enthusiast-level models like the FM & FE families), the N2000 reverted to the standard-for-the-class practice of releasing the mirror just prior to exposure, which results in less time for the vibration from the mirror flip to dissipate, something that can result in more image blur with shutter speeds between 1/30 - 1 sec. Not a huge deal for me personally, but it's there if you tend to obsess over that type of thing ;-).    
• If discretion is a big thing in your photography, the N2000 is likely not for you. This is not something worth agonizing over, as there are plenty of choices as far as manual-advance SLRs go for such purposes and the N2000 is not so earth-shatteringly superior in other ways so as to make it worth putting up with the noise if it's going to bother you that much. 
• Some users complain that the LED display washes out in bright situations. While I do not seem to have this problem, I did add a DK-16 rubber eyecup  from an F65 that helps to reduce stray light from leaking into the viewfinder around my eye socket and lowering the contrast of the display. There are a number of other DK-series (DK-9, DK-11, DK-20, DK-21, DK-23, DK-24, or DK-28) eyecups from various Nikon (D)SLRs over the years that can be mounted to the N2000 eyepiece which may be more suited to your face shape to mitigate this potential issue. I chose the DK-16 because it does not impact eye relief too much (for me personally), as the viewfinder on the N2000 is definitely not high-eyepoint (meaning that your eye cannot be placed very far from the eyepiece in order to see the whole display). The DK-20 also works very well for me personally, and is still readily available. I also tried the DK-23 from my D300 DSLR and while it was super comfortable, its thicker profile pushed my eye too far rearward. Thus the DK-16 or DK-20. You may have to experiment a bit to find that happy medium for yourself :-). Conversely, the LED display of the camera is one of the best of its type in low light that I have ever used because the actual digits are illuminated, not just a dot beside a number that requires outside light coming through the lens to be visible.
• The switch from a standard cable to an electronic remote release will drive some people batty. But Nikon was hardly the only company making this move in the mid-'80s...of all the competitive models listed earlier, only the Pentax was cable release-compatible (and it gives up a lot of other capabilities, as it was aimed lower in the market than the N2000 ;-)). At least the MC-12A & B are still readily available, for about $15-20 USD. 
• If you are coming from an F3 or N2020-or-newer Nikon SLR, the combined AE lock/self-timer control can be a bit confusing as you push the central button in for self-timer and push the circumferential lever in towards the lens mount for AE lock as opposed to the AE lock button used on those other models. Nikon had used this type of AE lock starting in 1972 with the Nikkormat EL and had carried it through the Nikon EL2, FE, and FE2 bodies. The N2000 was the last Nikon to use this control configuration.
• In typical fashion, being a consumer model, the N2000 lacks depth of field (DOF) preview, aperture display readout (ADR in Nikonese) in the viewfinder, or mirror lock-up (MLU). This really shouldn't be a shock, it was standard practice in the camera industry by then and remains so to this day. Lower-tier devices get less features. You can get all of those features and internal motor drive in a 1980s Nikon...it's called an F4...with over double the weight...and for five or ten times the price. Your choice ;-).
• Oh, and just one more thing, with even just an 50/1.8 AI Nikkor lens mounted, the N2K can't sit up straight on a table. I know, I know. Unacceptable, because that's how virtually every picture is taken...unsupported on a tabletop ;-).

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  Wrap-up

    Today, the N2000 lives in the same space occupied by other consumer Nikon SLRs. It is shunned by Nikonistas (aka "real" Photographers; note the capital "P"...very important) because it's not an F3 or F4 for a fraction of the price (I mean come on Nikon, get it together ;-)). However, when viewed in proper context, it was very competitive with its contemporaries, and is currently stupid-good value for the money. Consider for a moment what you get:

• A bright, snappy viewfinder and the best split-image rangefinder ever put in a Nikon SLR. This is arguably the most elemental of all SLR features.
• Nikon's classic and predictable 60/40 centerweighted metering pattern. 
• An accurate, durable shutter with a useful range of speeds (1 - 1/2000 sec. + Bulb).
• Simple operation with the ability to customize the amount of exposure automation to your liking and the situation (from the two Program modes to Aperture-priority to full-on Manual). The instruction manual numbers only 38 pages (including front and rear covers :-)).
• Manual mode that shows the meter-recommended shutter speed with a blinking LED number and the currently-set shutter speed with a constantly-lit one. Match the two together by turning the shutter speed dial to correspond to the blinking speed. You can also fine tune with the aperture ring between the full-stop detents. Easy peasy lemon squeezy :-).
• Both AE lock and +/-2 EV Exposure Compensation (in 1/3-stop increments, no less).
• A comprehensive, manually-set ISO range of 12-3200 (25-4000 in DX mode), which is plenty for any film currently available.
• A handy switch to disable that "bleeping" beeper if you prefer ;-).
• Battery life that ranges from Excellent (AAA alkalines) to Otherworldly (AA lithiums). 
• TTL flash metering that leaves the F3 in its dust. And full TTL compatibility with all Speedlights from the SB-16B up to the SB-600 (introduced in 2004).
• Excellent compatibility with almost all AI-modified, AI, AI-s Nikkors & Nikon Series E lenses, and any AF Nikkor with an aperture ring. The few exceptions are listed in the manual.

    That's a pretty stout feature-set for $50 USD or less for a Very Good to Excellent grade copy from a reputable retailer with warranty any day of the week, and for even less than that should you choose to take your chances online-auctioning or in a thrift store. An equivalent-condition FG with the getting-rare MD-14 motor drive included will be $150 USD, minimum. Buying the MD-14 separately will take $75 USD, alone (that's MD-4 price territory :-0). Which makes the N2000 look pretty stinkin' good for the money (and remember that it's 35% lighter) if you want powered film winding in a manual focus Nikon. If you can live comfortably with its compromises (remember that every SLR has them :-)), you can't beat the value.

   Perhaps the most apropos term for the N2000 is: Tweener. Stick it in between an FE2 (1982) and an N8008/F-801 (1988) and you clearly see the transitional character of the camera when it comes to controls and ergonomics. It also straddles the line between consumer affordability & simplicity and enthusiast capability. That makes it great for a first SLR or as an add-on to a battery of Nikon bodies for those situations where you don't want to risk a more valuable piece. Maybe Daijiro Fujie, designer of the N2000/F-301 viewfinder and Briteview focusing screen (and also, coincidentally, the vaunted AI-s 28/2.8 Nikkor lens) summed it up best when he recommended it to a younger colleague with honest humility:       

not a high-end, professional sort of camera, but a good camera nonetheless

    "...a good camera nonetheless."  So don't let the Nikonistas get to you...just put some earplugs in ;-), run your finger over your N2000's or F-301's thin red line, snap that bright viewfinder into focus, and blast away. Ka-chang...ka-chang...ka-chang...     

  References: 

   Nikon N2000 Instruction Manual
​   Nikon History - Camera Chronicle: Part 15: "Nikon F-501" & "F-301"
   Nikon History - Camera Chronicle: Debut of Nikon F3
   Nikkor - The Thousand and One Nights No. 57 - by Kouichi Ohshita
   Contax 137 MA Quartz Instruction Manual @ www.butkus.org/chinon
   Contax 137 MA Quartz Dealer Notebook Pages c.1987 @ www.pacificrimcamera.com
   First Look: Nikon N2000 Popular Photography Nov. 1985
​   Nikon Compendium: Handbook of the Nikon System by Hillebrand & Hauschild
   Nikon N2000 Brochure - June 1985